Thanksgiving

There's nothing like a holiday to turn thoughts to home. This is particularly true for me this year. We realize how privileged we are to be on such an assignment and we are grateful for so many things; for our health and that of our families', for the prosperity that allows us to come here, for the political stability in America that allows citizens to disagree in safety, for each other. As you know the politics of this region are complicated. My wife, as one of the only Americans some of these people will ever meet, gets asked a lot of questions about our country. Because Terry is approachable, people feel comfortable telling her their views of the USA and it can be overwhelming. Fortunately, my wife's week ended on a nice note. On Wednesday we went to the Binational Jordanian-American Commission (Fulbright) for a Thanksgiving celebration. There were about 50 people and it was great to catch up with friends. On Thursday we were invited to the home of US diplomats for a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. We have been far from home before, and we've worked through holidays before, but in this day and time in history, and after this week in particular, it was a great comfort to be with Americans. The day ended with a "skype" visit from my family in Florida then from our daughter and her family (including her wonderful in-laws) in California. I want to tell you, family and friends, how thankful we are for you. The hundreds of supportive emails you've sent while we are so far from home, the news you share, the prayers you send, keep us going. Happy Thanksgiving.

Bosphorus Strait

The Bosphorus Strait is the narrow water passage dividing Europe from Asia, similar to how the Panama Canal connects the Atlantic to the Pacific, but the Bosphorous is not man-made. We had a great cruise that began after the hotel breakfast (European and Turkish foods; delicious breads and grilled vegetables, homemade jams, local cheeses, several types of olives and fish and meats). Before we boarded the boat for the cruise we toured the Rustempasha mosque, built in 1560, and covered in famous Iznik tiles. On a cultural note, we learned that tulips, indigenous to Turkey, are the symbol of Islam here because in Arabic the word for God, Allah, forms the pattern of a tulip. And, speaking of Allah, we were gifted with an English language Koran. We then made our way past the freely roaming tagged dogs (tags prove spaying and shots) and entered the famed Spice Bazaar. The stalls displayed colorful pyramids of freshly ground spices, very exotic and fragrant. I really liked walking around, sampling candy and drinking pomegranate tea. When we exited the bazaar my wife noticed a man and his wives who appeared to be wearing the headdress of Jordan. She greeted them in Arabic and they lit up and all started talking at once, a regular family reunion, except they were Syrian refugees, not from Jordan. After heartfelt good-byes we were driven to the boat. This was our first organized tour group but it was small and intimate and guided by a young Turkish woman who confided to my wife she felt unsure of her English (Terry quickly reassured her). The Bosphorous connects the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea so you can imagine its strategic significance. Roughly one mile wide, it is the only warm water access to the high seas for several Black Sea nations, notably Russia. Both sides have broad hills that slope down to the water. The hilly topography provided good views of the Dolmabahce Palace, the Beylerbeyi Palace, and the Ciragan Palce, which reminded us of Russia's St. Petersburg. We drove through Ortakoy, then saw it from the cruise, an area home to Turks, Jews, Greeks and Armenians. There were religious structures of every stripe. We cruised passed the Rumeli Fortress, built in 1452 by Sultan Mehmet II, the largest and most impenetrable of the Middle Ages fortresses, and it looked it, dominating the Strait. The huge fortress was a real contrast to the modern architecture around it (and very dramatic). Tomorrow we return "home" to Jordan where Terry has very busy weeks ahead. In addition to teaching at the University of Jordan, she will lecture throughout Jordan's universities and high schools in honor of International Education Week.

Sultanahmet (Turkey)

Today was a day to tour Sultanahmet, the ancient heart of Istanbul and the Ottoman Empire. We saw the pillar erected by the Romans to mark the center of the city from which mileposts were measured (mille passuum). The city was named Constantinople (for Roman Emperor Constantine the Great) until 1453 when it was conquered by Muslim forces. Our guide's name was Ghenghis. He proudly informed us his son's name is Khan. He began by showing us a large map of Turkey which reminded us of how many ancient sites are here, from Troy to Thrace to Ephesus to Cappadocia. Only three per cent of Turkey is in Europe which ends at the Bosphorus Strait in the middle of Istanbul. The first stop on today's walking tour was the sprawling Topaki Palace complex, home of the Sultans. Just inside the palace walls was a large fourth century church. After the conquest of 1453 AD most churches in this area were converted to mosques. This one, however, was converted into an arsenal instead because in Islamic tradition all are equal before God and mosques are open to all. This would have posed an unacceptable security risk to the Sultan. His security was a recurring theme today for good reason. Palace intrigue and violent death were commonplace. Messengers from foreign lands brought into the Sultan's presence were required to lower their eyes and were restrained on each side by palace guards. If the Sultan didn't like the message the messenger was beheaded and his head returned to sender, preserved in a jar of honey. To this day Turks have a saying that a recipient of bad news "received the honey jar." The Sultan had over 300 concubines and 100 children. Fratricide was common as sons competed to become the next Sultan. Next stop was the Hagia Sophia, a third century church rebuilt twice into an enormous domed cathedral, turned mosque, turned museum. Its current iteration dates from the 1400s AD. Since Islam prohibits depiction of the human form as a guard against idol worship, we are fortunate that the mosaics depicting Jesus, Mary, and the Saints were merely plastered over rather than destroyed, thus preserving them. Then we were on to the underground cistern made (more) famous by a scene in Dan Brown's book "Inferno." Lost for centuries and rediscovered in the early 1960s by a curious British tourist poking around who stumbled upon it, this has become a major tourist attraction, made more so by the book. A movie version of the book was filmed here and is due out next year.

Then we went across the street to the Blue Mosque, the seventeenth largest mosque in the world. It's exterior is strikingly beautiful and dominates its surroundings. Upon going inside Terry received a light blue head covering as a loaner, we all took off our shoes of course, then marveled at the interior. We learned the patterned carpet is a guide to worshippers as they know where to place first their feet, then knees, hands, and forehead all according to the pattern. After the Blue Mosque we had lunch at a local restaurant serving traditional Turkish fare of grilled vegetables and meats/fish. This part of Istanbul has a very cosmopolitan feel. It is a cafe culture with diners spilling out of restaurants to streetside tables, similar to Paris. The foods displayed everywhere were colorful and showed a big city sophistication, not surprising for a city of over 14 million. Finally we were off to the Grand Bazaar which boasts being the world's oldest and largest market dating from 1453 AD with over 4,000 stalls. As expected in such a place the merchants (all men) were quite energetic in asking us to come into their stalls. Terry needed some leather gloves and our guide told us to haggle, a skill seldom used by Americans, but we were game. The merchant's opening price was 120 Turkish lira (around $40). After some back and forth Terry headed for the exit. That did the trick and the purchase price was 50 Turkish lira (around $15), not bad for black leather gloves. By this time we had parted company with Ghenghis so we walked back to our hotel on a perfect sunny fall day having gotten our excercise by walking for six hours in one of the most amazing cities I have ever seen. We stopped in a pastry shop we couldn't resist and bought a sweet resembling baklava on steroids filled with pistachios and honey. We made it back in time for afternoon tea which made my wife very happy.

University of Istanbul (Turkey)

Well faithful readers, it's been eleven days since my last post. Our time was filled with activities that now pass as routine. Terry's Fulbright duties include teaching graduate students at the university. But going above and beyond she uses her "off" time to lecture at universities and high schools all over Jordan on behalf of the US Embassy. She also gave a writing workshop for university students, attended committee meetings, and provided career counseling to students from all over the university who heard her background and sought her out. She edited faculty research and doctoral students' dissertations (that they write such complex things in English is very impressive), and helped a military colonel with a paper. And in the little time left we were guests (lunches and dinners) of her generous colleagues.

Yesterday we flew to Istanbul, Turkey, because (as I wrote in a previous post) Fulbright encourages scholars to lecture throughout the region. After we landed in Turkey I had the same sensation as when we lived in Alaska and visited Hawaii in the winter: It was nice to see greenery again. We are staying in Istanbul's historic district and had a "hotel orientation" by an enthusiastic young man named Ufuk (no kidding). I've grown so used to using Arabic words I kept saying "shukran" and "afwan" ("thank you" and "you're welcome" in Arabic), despite the fact that Arabic isn't spoken in Turkey! I'm guessing it will be some time before I stop including Arabic words in my speech. Young Ufuk told us he lives across the Bosphorus Strait, which means he goes from Asia to Europe, and back again, for work every day. After an elaborate tea at the hotel, and trust me, Turkey lives up to its reputation as a foodie paradise, we walked the cobbled, narrow (and clean) streets of the old town (a UNESCO world heritage site). Each block is more colorful than the last. The skyline is dominated by the enormous Blue Mosque. The bazaar we entered had high end Turkish products such as leather goods, hand woven rugs, ceramics, antique jewelry, and Turkish delight, the famous jellied candy.

This morning a doctoral student from the Florence Nightingale School of Nursing at the University of Istanbul brought us to the university for Terry's lecture. The reason a Turkish school is named after a British subject is because Florence Nightingale, known as the founder of modern nursing, came to prominence in 1854 during the Crimean War and British war casualties were brought to Istanbul, so it was here she did her work. We were greeted by members of the school's international committee and given a tour. It is the largest nursing school in Turkey with over 2,000 students. At one point someone mentioned my wife would be speaking to students who knew no English. While I thought the pucker factor on that was pretty high Terry took it in stride (she told me later that happened before in Cambodia). It turns out they understood her just fine. It seems obligatory for schools and students to modestly downplay their English skills when there is really no need. Before the lecture we were treated to Turkish coffee, for those who don't know a very thick coffee one drinks down to the grounds. Then we were treated to a local custom, the reading of fortunes in the coffee grounds. Among the many good things about to happen to us, it turns out we are going to enjoy a family celebration so happy we will all "hold hands and dance." We were pleased to receive positive fortunes (Whew!!). The lecture went well and Terry was very well received as always. Afterward the students and faculty gathered around for photos and Terry was presented with a certificate of appreciation and a handcrafted wooden box filled with, you guessed it, Turkish delight.

Abu Dhabi (UAE)

We toured 6 of the 7 Emirates but I'll highlight Abu Dhabi, the capital. The largest Emirate, it comprises 87% of the UAE. Oil, discovered in the early 1960s in the "empty quarter," transformed Abu Dhabi into an economic giant. We hired a private guide and headed south for 90 minutes. Along the way we passed a future Bollywood picture studio and theme park. One of my biggest surprises is the extent the country is populated by Indians and Pakistanis, who form a majority. Our guide gave us a little flavor of life here for many. They are on two year work visas, renewable on good behavior. He said citizenship for South Asians is out of the question, even if born here. The majority of laborers are men who leave wives and children behind to live communally and send money home. During summer months tourist traffic dries up in 120F heat so they go home to see their families. On a cultural note, he said we don't see beggars because it's not only illegal, but within minutes of begging the police will pick them up and put them on the first plane out "with or without a passport." But I digress.

The moment we crossed the road into Abu Dhabi the highway changed. On both sides were miles of many varieties of green trees. It was a striking contrast. Our first stop was the parking lot of the Sheikh Zayed Mosque. We met with our Jordan driver's son there. Terry invited our Jordan driver to tell his wife we'd deliver goodies from her. There is nothing as universal as a care package. Anyway, the late Sheikh, ruler of Abu Dhabi, conceived and financed the mosque. A Muslim who helps build a mosque receives special dispensation, kind of like brownie points, for paradise. Construction was completed in 2007 and the Sheikh, who died in 2004, is buried on the grounds. It is the eighth largest mosque in the world, over 40,000 worshippers can pray simultaneously, and the word "spectacular" does not begin to describe it. The floors were priceless, the jewel-encrusted chandeliers enormous, the hand woven carpets like nothing imaginable, even the walls were amazing. Terry fit right in because, as is required, she was covered head-to-toe in a black abaya (yes, I have pictures). We then spent many hours touring, everything from the wharf to the fruit markets to a Heritage Village with craftsmen demonstrations and ancient homes. In the city itself, like the rest of UAE, architecture was modern, sleek, innovative. A building in the shape of a cobra, another built like an enormous coin, a mall designed like a huge Bedouin tent, too many unique designs to capture in words or photos. The "normal" suburbs, restricted to Emiratis, were streets lined with enormous mansions the size of a city block. Another cultural note is that in the Emirates Palace Hotel (across a lagoon from the Royal Palace) has a lobby, separated from the cavernous main lobby, empty because it is for the sole use of royalty - no proletarian rear ends parked in those chairs. We saw the royal yacht and, from afar, palace entrances. On the city skyline we saw three towers, all the same height, but designed to be an optical illusion. When we were in one neighborhood, the first building looked the tallest, in another neighborhood the second looked the tallest, and so on. We saw where horses race, camels race, cricket is played, polo is played. We passed an impromptu car show on the side of the road and I took pictures of a Lamborghini, a Delorean, a Ferrari, and cars I didn't recognize. Our impression of Abu Dhabi was favorable; how could it not be? It was spotlessly clean, no garbage anywhere, surprisingly green, with pristine beaches where water was so clear it was like glass. I entered tourist attraction after tourist attraction but paid nothing because the government pays all entry fees - for everyone. The crime rate is LESS than one percent, largely because there is no tolerance for it. The oil money opulence, as I wrote, is hard to describe. You need to see it, to experience it, to understand what it means. I am now recuperating from a medical condition my wife calls "acute jaw drop."

Dubai (UAE)

Today we played tourist. We hired both a driver and a licensed tour guide to help us understand Dubai. We spent a thoroughly enjoyable day in the city, and its outskirts, but instead of detailing our every move - we saw and learned a lot - I'll limit my descriptions to the highlights. Dubai is modern, wealthy, and spotless, much like Singapore, but it comes at a price. Cameras are everywhere and, we learned, punishments range "from high fees to death, and are enforced." Another interesting cultural note is that landscaping is used to engineer pedestrian movement. For example, median strips of boulevards are lined with miles of beautiful plants, all hooked up to efficient drip-system irrigation, and the city is slowly adding high see-through fences along the routes which has the effect of forcing everyone to cross in a crosswalk or be stuck in the middle of the boulevard with no way to get to the other side. Anyway, there's so much more to Dubai than the world's largest shopping mall (yes, it's spectacular and, yes, it really does have ski slopes, waterfalls, and a zoo) and the world's tallest building (yes, again, to "spectacular"). Dubai Creek (actually a river) flows by gold and spice markets and has an efficient water taxi system similar to Baltimore's Inner Harbor. The Heritage Village and Diving Village, similar to Detroit's Greenfield Village, are lifted straight from a different era. The Jumeirah Mosque is spectacular, as is the nearby beach (populated today, a Friday and first day of the weekend, by Westerners wearing Western bathing suits). From the beach the Burj Al Arab (a hotel in the shape of a sail set on a private island) is visible. Just as in Las Vegas, visiting the different hotels yields interesting sights. For example, the Al Qasr has a huge garden in front filled with life size horse statutes - made of 18 karat gold - and the only parking lot I've seen where the Bentleys look cheap by comparison to the other autos. One of the more interesting things we toured was Palm Island, actually a series of man-made islands built in the shape of, yes, a palm tree. The tree trunk had condos and the 16 fronds (separate islands) had private mansions (each with its own private beach) priced around $5 million USD. At the apex of the island stands the Atlantis Hotel with one of the world's largest indoor aquariums. Again, the day was long and there's no need to bore you with more details, but I must add seeing the outside of the palace of His Highness Sheikh Mohammad bin Rashid Al Maktoum, and his brother's palace across the street, was nothing short of amazing (each the size of a city in its own right). But the best part? The traffic circle between the two palaces. The traffic circle - and that was its only function - had huge vases and urns --- made of gold! The urns were surrounded by flowers and plants. And that's what a traffic circle looks like in Dubai.

Khasab (Oman)

Since we're in the region we thought a side trip to the Sultanate of Oman was called for. In the early dark dawn our driver picked us up for a three hour drive to Khasab, Oman. Khasab is the principal town (make that the only town of any size) in Musandam Governate, part of the Arabian peninsula that juts northward toward Iran and forms the southern boundary of the Straits of Hormuz. The two border crossing facilities befit the seventh richest country in the world (UAE) and the twenty second richest (Oman) (according to Global Finance Magazine). Both were large, lavish, and mostly empty. In both there were many friendly, uniformed men who seemed to have little to do. Maybe it was our timing but given he remote nature of where they're located, it may be a local jobs program using oil money. In the UAE building we were there long enough to observe three or four Emiratis in traditional white robes appear suddenly one at a time from the second floor, make the rounds of the uniformed officers, shake each person's hand, then disappear just as quickly. Within two minutes another white-robed Emerati would appear, make the rounds shaking hands, then disappear. And so on. We could only wonder. It isn't that anyone seeking a visa was delayed as we were the only ones there. Our driver had our passports and was in deep conversation with an officer at the time. As an aside, I'm always queasy when I'm required to hand my passport over to someone such as our driver or at a hotel. The Omanis were careful to look at every national stamp in our passports. We had been warned that passport stamps from certain countries would be grounds for them to refuse us entry.

Immediately after the border crossing the terrain became very mountainous, remained so throughout Oman, and reminded us of Palm Springs. And goats were everywhere, in the streets, on the mountains, running wildly. We rode on a highway hugging the mountains on one side with the Persian Gulf on the other. We could see oil tankers heading toward the Straits of Hormuz. The rare populated areas we passed looked prosperous. To our eyes it looked incredibly remote yet it is the center of the universe for its residents. After another hour we reached Khasab, a quaint fishing village where dhows, ships inspired by ancient designs, ferry laborers to work and tourists to the fjords. When we arrived our dhow had not so we were driven to Khasab Castle for a tour. It was built by the Portugese in the seventeenth century to control trade and pirates.

Then on to our dhow trip. There are no seats on the dhows. In keeping with tradition, after we removed our shoes we lounged on cushions placed around the perimeter of carpeted decks. Fortunately for me, there was plenty of shade. Fortunately for all of us, we were a small group of 5 on a large dhow so we could spread out. The crew was an Omani in traditional robes assisted by an Indian fellow who, every few minutes, offered us sweet tea with rose water, coffee with cardamom, and fruit. The fjords were dramatic, the atmosphere peaceful. The scenery was beautiful, a little like Lake Mead in Las Vegas, and dolphins swam alongside us. I took a video to show our granddaughter of Terry waving to the dolphins (who I named Flipper and Sushi) as they seemed to follow her waving hand pretty closely. Bedouin fishing villages hugged the shore. The villages had around fifty people each. They are so remote the Omani government ferries their children to school for the week, returning them on weekends, and supplies the villagers (who lack electricity) with fresh water. We were warned against taking photos of the village women and were asked to remain modest "in behavior and dress" when visible to villagers. The dhow stopped near a fjord in crystal clear water that we thought dropped more than 20 feet. We were offered snorkeling gear but passed. We thoroughly enjoyed relaxing on the gently swaying dhow in the most remote area we have ever been (yet roughly a mere 40 miles from the Coast of Iran). We threw bread to the fish and watched the schools gather. There were beautifully colored fish in crystal clear water. On the quiet return to port, and just in front of us, our captain (probably in his sixties) pulled out his prayer rug and, facing west, completed his prayers, touching his forehead to the deck several times(some Westerners think Muslims face east to pray but it is always in the direction of Mecca, in this case due west of Oman). When I see this I am struck by how deep religious devotion is in this part of the world. No doubts, no embarrassment, no explanations for public prayer. I am also struck with the contrast to trends in the West, for better or worse. The day was far more relaxing than we expected but after a three hour ride back to Dubai we were glad to see our hotel and enjoy high tea that included Arab and English influences.