From David: My Brush with Police

Speaking of the U.S. Embassy, it is the largest in the Middle East. The compound  of several large buildings stretches for over one half mile along the street by our apartment. The architectural style is Middle Eastern sandstone of course. It bristles with electronic equipment from every rooftop. To say the least security is tight. Think how you imagine Ft. Knox. Concertina wire on top of every perimeter fence, large signs saying "NO PHOTOS", and if you think they don't mean business there are always armored personnel carriers with machine guns in front at the ready manned by Jordanian soldiers. We haven't seen U.S. Marines yet as they are presumably inside. We pass in front every day on our way to the Taj Mall (remember PF Chang's?). 

Across the street from this imposing compound is more security in the form of a small police car which is always there. It seems tiny by comparison to the fortress across the street. Yesterday as I walked by the occupants of this car waved for me to come over.  Since I wear a silly looking sun cancer prevention hat it was obvious I'm not from around these parts. I was ready with my "please officer I'm just a poor foreigner who doesn't know any better and by the way I didn't take any photos" defense. As I approached I saw three fully armed and combat ready officers wearing bullet proof vests in this parked car in 100 degree heat. The heat alone could make anyone cranky. When I got to the car one officer extended his hand to shake mine. I asked if any of them speak English and one got out of the car saying yes. The next thing I knew they all shook my hand, welcomed me to Jordan, and gave me a cup of Turkish coffee to share. This will remain one of my fondest memories of my time here.

We haven't had much time to explore but we have quite a list of things to see. I've enjoyed writing this so you can expect more soon. One final word about safety for family and friends who might be worried. Jordan is known as the most stable country in the region. Walking at all hours is perfectly safe. There are four million people in Amman including thousands upon thousands of Westerners who are welcomed here just as warmly as we have been.

Hello From Terry

Ahalan Wasalan from Amman.

Surprisingly, Amman has a Western feel. Our apartment has central heating and air, the furniture is from IKEA, the traffic no different (in vehicle types and density) than Los Angles, and we met Jordanians whose English is superior to some of my students who were born in the USA. But differences! Sink water is not potable, the mall food court has, in addition to the delicious Jordan fast foods, chains from the USA, England, Lebanon, Syria and elsewhere. Shoppers also vary. Gradations from women in abayas (almost exactly like a burka but without the eye mesh and black instead of blue) to women in shorts and spaghetti straps. Men in jeans stroll alongside men in thawbs  (long white robes). We are unable to discern nationalities not solely because Jordanian teens dress like American teens but because Jordan is the heart of the Middle East and every imaginable clothing variation is seen.

The food is another surprise. I'm guessing the intense flavors are because the food we eat is grown locally without preservatives and thus amounts to organic. The famed pastries and dates are delicious beyond description. A particular Jordanian food, the kanafeh, is cheese encased in what seems like crushed baklava with a dense layer of crushed pistachios on top. Then it is fried in honey. Wow. David had a Greek salad with feta cheese so fresh he could spread it like butter. Again: Wow.

David did a great deal of work prior to our arrival so we found an apartment quickly and are starting to meet those he met through email and corresponded with this year. This is an understatement. David made a lot of friends! We have been BUSY!

The Fulbright orientation is wonderful. We are 2 scholars and about 25 students, some of whom will research, some will teach English. David and I have had the honor of meeting some very bright people, including a handful from prior years who remained in Jordan. For me there is some emotion involved because I am reminded of my time in the jungle in Cambodia when people who had never seen medical personnel - ever - kissed my hands from gratitude. When Jordanians learn I am here to help, here to teach, here to learn and understand, they show kindness and generosity beyond anything I earned. And I am humbled. I pray I successfully attain the Fulbright goal, to strengthen cultural ties through education, and in so doing represent our country with dignity and with grace.

Hello from David

Hello friends from surprising Amman, Jordan. Terry and I are settling into our apartment with few difficulties and it's time for my first post. As family and friends know, Terry was named a Fulbright Scholar in a nationwide competition and will teach academic writing to doctoral students in the faculty of nursing at the University of Jordan here in Amman.

As her dependent here my role is planner, fixer, dutiful husband, hanger-on, and as my dermatologist so aptly put it--eye candy; all roles I take very seriously.

So far we have found both Jordanians and expats to be enormously welcoming. The city is an interesting blend of East and West. For example, where else can you eat in PF Chang's in an unbelievably modern mall while listening to the evening call to prayer amplified on loudspeakers from local mosques while surrounded by fellow diners in every imaginable regional garb? It's still the summer season here so Saudis and other Gulf State citizens (U.A.E., Qatar, Bahrain, Oman, Kuwait) flock here on vacation to see the sights and escape the heat as the elevation of Amman is 2,500' (which means 100 degrees Fahrenheit instead of 120).

We decided to locate in Abduon, a wealthy area of West Amman home to many expats and one block from the American Embassy. Originally we thought about living near the University but it is in a far more traditional area. While planning this adventure online we came upon a young Arab-American woman from Redlands, California now living in Amman. She advised that the traditional experience was too intense even for her and steered us to Abduon; advice we took.

Early in the planning process I stumbled upon an organization for expats with chapters in 390 cities around the world called Internations. It isn't just for expats though, so there are Jordanian members. Though many of their activities seem geared toward singles it has been a wealth of information for us about Amman. Through it I have found potential tennis partners, advice about apartments as I mentioned, and a number of promising contacts. Shortly after arrival Terry and I went to an event where we met a high ranking U.S. Embassy  official with six weeks under his belt in Amman thus making him a grizzled and trusted veteran of everything local. To our delight he adopted us and two days later gave us the grand tour of our mutual neighborhood. Since we're on foot here (or in taxis which is a story for a later time) his tour gave us a real jumpstart on restaurants, supermarkets, specialty stores, etc. This guy is a force of nature. After 28 years in the U.S. Military and Foreign Service he finally landed in Amman, a posting he requested. He says it is the most advanced country in which he has been posted and his family will be here for three years.



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