Circassians

Since writing about the Royal Automobile Club of Jordan I learned about other country clubs based on religion or nationality. For example, the Orthodox Club (near us in Abdoun) caters to Christians. The Al-Ahli Club caters to Circassians, a national group originating by the Black Sea with 180,000 members in Jordan occupying a unique niche. Descendants of the Cossacks, Circassians are ethnically more European than Middle Eastern, which caused my surprise to see so many blue-eyed, blond-haired people here. In 1717, during the Ottoman Empire, large numbers of Orthodox Christian Circassians were forced by Turks to convert to Islam at sword point. Subsequent war with (and genocide by) Russia dispersed this population throughout the Middle East. Amman was little more than a Circassian village for decades. King Abdallah (the late King Hussein's grandfather) relocated here (from Saudi Arabia) at the end of the nineteenth century. He was exiled by war but welcomed by the local community. The Hashemite dynasty traces its lineage to the Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) and, being devout Muslims since their conversion, the King was held in high esteem. A cultural note is that after written reference to the Prophet, even in newspapers, (PBUH) or "Peace Be Upon Him" is added. For over a century the Circassians have formed the palace guard, protecting the Hashemite royal family the way Swiss Guards protect the Vatican. Occasionally on the news they are seen in the Royal Palace wearing Cossack-style uniforms, an unusual sight (especially in the Middle East). They occupy many positions of responsibility here beyond their numerical representation in the country.