Saturday, October 3, 2015

Royal Automobile Club of Jordan

Today was a fascinating day. It began by accompanying my wife, who was invited to observe the International Association of Women Judges Conference, accomplished women from the Middle East and North Africa succeeding in male-dominated societies. Terry used my iPad to take a photo of a new friend, Parliamentarian (Hon.) Senator Taghreed Hikmat, Jordan's first female judge, soon to be appointed to the Jordanian Supreme Court.

Afterward we headed to Sufara, one of Jordan's most famous bakeries. In Jordan grocery shopping is done by men, the place was packed, and the smell great (everything fresh-baked). Shoppers point to what they want and gloved teenagers wrap the goods in plastic. We bought small pastries filled with strawberry, honey-glazed croissants, bite-sized savory pastries filled with either cheese, potato, spinach, or spices we couldn't identify. Then we walked to the 6-story Galleria Mall but as it was Friday, Islam's holy day, stores opened late (after the noon sermons given at mosques) so we had time to relax with a cup of coffee and enjoy some of the fresh pastries.

We shopped, caught a cab home, and were settling in when the phone rang. A Jordanian attorney I corresponded with from home, but hadn't met in person, invited us to The Royal Automobile Club of Jordan, one of the most exclusive country clubs here. He said membership is after 2 members vouch for candidates, an enormous admission fee is paid, and after a lengthy wait that could be over 3 years. The Club was large and elaborate, with tennis and squash courts, miniature soccer fields, swimming pools, bowling alleys, a go cart track, children's play areas, prayer areas, a display of items owned by the late King Hussein, and a massive outdoor restaurant under the stars. Families eat dinner late in Jordan and it was in full swing. Many enjoyed nargilas, the local water pipe, with dinner. Some played cards. After our friend gave us a tour of his club we settled in on the patio for a night of conversation and lemonade with mint. He attended university in Aleppo, Syria, and was wistful describing how safe and beautiful it had been, now a thing of the past. He and Terry traded observations about being attorneys and he mentioned his extended family's palaces, which can be seen on the internet if you look up Abdul-Hadi palaces. Tonight we engaged in our most wide ranging conversation thus far about the Middle East and I said the biggest benefit of coming to Jordan is that we get to experience Middle Eastern culture in a safe and friendly country. After several hours we went home, tired but happy after a day that went from female judges to bakery goods to drinks under the stars. Tomorrow we are meeting an entirely different group of friends, mostly locals but a few here on business from all over the world, for brunch. The adventure continues.

7 comments:

  1. Could you tell us a little more about what your wife is doing at the university?
    Thanks

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  2. Happy to. She teaches 2 classes. She leads writing workshops. Sheila scheduled to lead a writing and research symposium. When asked, she edits research papers and dissertations for students and faculty. She is a member of 2 university committees. She is a consultant for Sigma Theta Tau. She participates in the Jordanian Nursing Council. She developed a syllabus (actually 2) for the university. She is scheduled to present guest lectures in about 5 classes. She is assisting with accreditation. Outside the university she speaks at other universities on behalf of the U.S. Embassy, was asked to participate in a United Nations project, and does community volunteer work. I think that covers it.

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  3. My favorite part of traveling always has been getting to meet and chat with local people.

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  4. Ryan, that is actually one of Terry's goals as a goodwill Fulbright ambassador, to meet at least 10 locals weekly.

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  5. Thought it was interesting that at our client dinners in Jordan, lemonade with mint was the drink of choice over wine or any other form of alcohol. Perhaps because of the weather it was refreshing? Or is it that citrus is rare enough that it's a sign of wealth....over a fine bottle of wine? I'd be curious if you might know that answer.

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  6. Citrus isn't rare here, Jim, Jordan exports citrus. I'm guessing - and it's just a guess - citrus with mint is more popular than alcohol because (1) Muslims don't usually drink alcohol; and (2) citrus and mint are plentiful and cheap. Jordan is the 2nd most water-poor country in the world (after Bahrain) so drinks from citrus, in some restaurants, are less expensive than ordering water.

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