Christmas in Prague (Czech Republic)

Terry was going to lecture in Prague, then Budapest, but universities close for Christmas. We decided to go anyway because I was in Prague in 1991 (after the Velvet Revolution sent the Soviets packing) and have been eager to show it to Terry ever since. The flight was through Paris and the airport filled with the smell from huge baskets of freshly baked croissants (we of course sampled them - delicious). At passport control Terry voiced regret over recent events and said "Vive La France!" to the inspector who replied (in halting English) "God Bless America!" It was a small but touching exchange. Our hotel dated from the 1200s, just off Old Town square, and epitomized the city's grandeur as our room was entered via an anteroom, had soaring ceilings, huge windows, and a large sitting (living) room. There are few sights in Europe to match the architecture of Prague. Spared from destruction in World War II it is a medieval treasure (and protected UNESCO site). We began with a city tour. We explored new and old Prague by minibus, walking, and a river cruise. We toured Prague Castle high on a hill overlooking the Vltava River, then cruised down the river before a walking tour of the old Jewish Quarter and Old Town. Our guide was great (smart, funny).

The evening was a highlight because I had emailed the local Internations chapter and was invited on an evening walk through Prague. There were about 15 of us from the US, Australia, Russia, Ghana, UK, Slovakia, Germany, Macedonia, and the Czech Republic. For over 4 hours we walked 10 kilometers over hill and dale, both sides of the river, through parks, around and in the castle, and over bridges. There was plenty of time to get acquainted. A more welcoming group you couldn't possibly find so the evening will always be a favorite memory. The walk's goal was to visit 5 Christmas markets (they are wonderful), the largest of which was by our hotel. Christmas markets are clusters of tiny wooden huts, each selling a different local product. The traditional Christmas cookie, a sugared dough baked like a rotisserie over a fire, causes the air to smell like warm cinnamon. Christmas day, after walking across the incredible Charles Bridge with thousands of others, we had a traditional Czech Christmas meal of carp and fish soup. On a cultural note, Czechs share their carp with the poor just as Jordanians share their lamb with the poor at Eid. Our similarities transcend religion or country. But I digress. In the center of the markets were tall Christmas trees, decorated dramatically, and the beautiful operatic music that filled every restaurant and store also filled the Christmas markets. We sampled cider, mulled wine, a hot pear drink, grog, a cherry drink, the famous Pilsner beer, and a chocolate drink so intense it was like a liquid candy bar. The weather was brisk but warm for the season so we were mostly comfortable. The people were friendly and stylish. Another cultural note is the prevalence of marionettes. When dominated by the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the late 1800s, the Czech language, though suppressed, survived because itinerant puppeteers went village to village performing in Czech; thus there is much affection here for puppets. Although away from family during Christmas, we were in a beautiful city, where we walked for hours, grateful for our many blessings.