Paphos (Cyprus)

Terry's lecture at the University of Nicosia was very well received by the students and faculty. Prior to her lecture we toured one of the 24 picturesque historic neighborhoods being renovated. We also toured what local's call "Beverly Hills." At the university the first of "it's a small world" coincidences occurred. First, my wife's faculty contact in Cyprus is the good friend of Terry's colleague in Jordan. Next, at breakfast the next day we met a couple from Lebanon and the wife attended the same law school as Terry - and they have mutual acquaintances. The last coincidence involves the Cyprus Fulbright Center, located in the UN buffer zone, with checkpoints, guard towers, barbed wire, and the friendly (from Glasgow) UN soldiers with their light blue berets who cautioned us against taking photos. The coincidence was that recently Secretary Kerry was across the street from our home in Jordan, visiting the US Embassy, in Istanbul when Terry taught there, then on his way to the office we were visiting in Cyprus. We quickly left before streets were sealed (for security) and us with it. We needed to board the bus to Paphos, a city on the other side of the island.

The two hour bus ride was thoroughly enjoyable. The scenery of Cyprus, a country about as large as the big island of Hawaii, and one tenth the size of Jordan, has mountains and lakes, arid areas juxtaposed with farmland. Paphos, on the Mediterranean coast, is chock full of Roman ruins. We saw a castle, early churches, an open market and an amphitheater. The intricate Roman mosaics are similar to those in Madaba, Jordan. The ruins are adjacent to tourist areas and easily accessible along the pedestrian promenade hugging the coastline. The day was warm and sunny so we strolled the promenade, deep blue crystal-clear Mediterranean on one side, outdoor cafes (and famed fish restaurants) and ruins on the other. Spectacular. We stayed in a luxury hotel on the water but we had the place to ourselves (who could have imagined such weather in December?). We left the beaten path to explore other ruins, including an ancient church then descended into catacombs housing the remains of an early Saint. At the entry were hundreds of pieces of cloth tied to tree branches. A passing woman explained the local custom of those who offer prayers to tie pieces of fabric on the branches to represent their prayers. On a cultural note, in all of our travels this was the first place I was mistaken - several times! - for a local. A British local (must be the hat). The British influences of this former colony are pronounced. The day ended with a two-hour taxi ride to Larnaca, completing our full circle tour of Cyprus. Each of the areas we toured had completely different influences, from Greek to Turkish to British, reflecting the interesting history of this beautiful island country and its resilient and friendly people.