Saturday, January 9, 2016

Kibbutz

In the Arava Desert north of Eilat (11% of Israel's landmass, where 50% of the people are under 18-years old) are about 10 kibbutzim (plural of kibbutz); agricultural communes dating from the early days of Israel's independence. We were fortunate to stay at one, an opportunity I used to ask questions and learn. The centerpiece was the communal dining hall where meals were served daily. The majority of people were young, many were volunteers (from all over the world and of different races and religions) who came to work in agricultural jobs for several months in exchange for room and board and a chance to experience Israel. In this region, milk products and dates are the most important income sources for the kibbutzim. In addition to volunteers were members and residents, each group with a unique status. To me, most interesting were members. Founding members of kibbutzim decades ago were politically left leaning (apparent by their operating practices). Current day members continued the legacy, with variations at each kibbutz. We stayed at one where members chose their work rather than having it assigned by the kibbutz. Some members went to college and worked off site but signed their paychecks over to the kibbutz. Others worked full-time in the communal garage, cooking meals, milking cows, or in the communal laundry. The work can vary for a member by season and personal preference. Each member had a debit card to draw as much money as they need for personal expenses. Members do not own personal cars but there was a fleet from which people could reserve cars for personal use. We were told only large purchases were subject to review and approval by the members at their bi-weekly business meeting. Candidates for membership must work for a year before their candidacy is decided (by secret ballot requiring approval by 2/3 of the members). Housing is assigned and all incidentals (shampoo, toilet paper, etc.) provided. Until 1991 it was common at kibbutzim to raise children in communal "children's houses," a practice that ended with the Gulf War when Scud missiles caused worried parents to bring their children into their homes. Another (smaller) category, residents, included long-termers paying rent but who were not members (friends, or elderly parents from the city, for example). They do not vote in kibbutz affairs but live communally like the others. For security reasons underground shelters were scattered around the grounds and every kibbutz was surrounded by barbed wire fencing (but at such a distance it was not visually oppressive). Vehicular traffic in the kibbutz was rare and a peaceful feel prevailed. Streams of people strolled continually, volunteers strummed guitars around campfires, children played without their parents resorting to play dates, and cats and dogs wandered freely. My wife, ever game, spent a morning feeding newborn calves. The whole scene was highly unusual and bucolic, our latest adventure. The Arava Desert was visually stunning reminding me of the Nevada desert. We ended our visit with a tour through nearby Timna National Park and Solomon's mines and Solomon's Pillars rock formation, a striking landscape and unique experience.

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